Removing top cover of Magic Deluxe

for replacing internal parts

The steps detailed below apply to Magic Deluxe, Magic Comfort Plus  &  Royal  Professional.

For parts location in the machines, please use exploded diagram of the models, made available on this web site.

Removing the top cover is easy if proper tools are available. Specific tools include

1- Torx screw driver (star shape screw head instead of  Philip head)

2- Philip screw driver  one long and one short    3- Nose Pliers   4- A test meter (analog or Digital)

5- A small magnet that is strong enough to pick weight of a teaspoon.  6- A 1/4" plastic tube, 3 to 4 ft long.   7- Vacuum cleaner with narrow long nozzle.

8- Exploded diagram of internal parts   9- Wiring diagram

Removing the top cover:  To remove the top 1- Remove water tank. 

2- Remove two philip screws to lift the bean hopper out.

3- Remove the grind adjustment lever. For the grind adjustment lever place your two index fingers below the bottom of the lever and pull up from both sides. (Check instructions for adjusting and cleaning the grinder illustrated instructions on the web site). 

4- Remove two Torx located on the rear edge, under the water tank. 

5- Remove two philip screws, one on each corner in the front, below the front edge of top cover.  

Pull the cover up by lifting it about 1/2" from the back and moving it to the front to free it from the steam knob and the touch pad. Lift the steam pipe to its top to slide it out through the slot as you free the top cover. A wire connecting the hot plate with electronic board will still be attached and will limit the complete removal of the top. Do not disconnect the wire. Lay the top towards the back of the machine. Now the entire machine is exposed for open-heart surgery.

To find leaks, machine has to be operated. To operate the machine with the top removed, water connection has to be established and the water level sensor activated.

 To connect the machine with source of water, separate the silicone hose from water inlet. (bottom rear of the top cover).  Connect the 1/4" plastic tube by inserting it into this 5/8 mm soft silicone tube on one end and dip the other end of the 1/4" plastic tube in a bottle with clean water. Make sure that the tube stays immersed deep into the bottom of the water container.

Place the magnet next to the water level sensor. The level sensor is a white rectangular piece (1' x 1/2" x 1/4") located between the water tank and the grinder. If the magnet is not properly placed next to the level sensor, the "no water" light will be on when the machine is plugged into the electric outlet. If so, the position of the magnet can be jigged until the no water water light goes off.

Close the door with brew unit in place. Insert drip tray and the dump box in place correctly.

The machine is now ready to be powered up and tested.

Immediately after turning the power on, prime the machine by opening the steam knob. Protect the electronic board from steam or stream of leaking water aimed towards it. Once warmed up, the  machine can be tested by making a fake espresso (pre-ground cycle without coffee) to see if any leakage of water or steam can be spotted.

With the top cover removed, the following internal parts can be inspected for leaks and functional faults. Replace faulty parts as necessary:

a- the thermostats mounted on the heat exchanger.

b- the heating element

c- the solenoid valve coil near the pump. 

Subsequently, before replacing the top cover, make an espresso with coffee. To do so, hold the bean hopper on the grinder inlet and add beans  in the bean hopper just enough for one espresso (excess beans will spill around and  inside   and be difficult to clean, especially from around the doser assembly.

To remove the pump, avoid removing the pump mounting pads. Disconnect the 90 degree plastic connector with hose, from the rear of the pump.  Make sure to remove all old O-rings and clean space around o-rings.  To connect hoses, slide O-rings on the hose end first, and wet new O-rings with lube, before inserting.

Replacing the O-rings will be much easy if the heat exchanger is removed from the machine. The heat exchanger is mounted with only one bracket and two screws. You will need to disconnect wires going from heat exchanger to the electronic board. Before you can pull it out, you should make copious notes to remember each wire disconnected from the heat exchanger or the electronic circuit board. There can be no directions from anyone  in that department if you end up with a lose wire and do not know where you pulled it from. In such a case the only way is to follow an electrical diagram.

Below: Diagram showing opened brew unit gear box. 

Picture shows position of gears and timing switches in the Home position.